Made in WNC: American Miso Company’s Commitment to Traditional, Handmade Miso
Jul 21, 2025 08:01AM ● By Emma Castleberry
Why Western North Carolina?
Miso is made by fermenting soybeans with salt, water, and rice that has been inoculated with a fungus called Aspergillus oryzae to create koji. The fermentation process, which can take anywhere from several months to years, breaks down the soybeans and rice into a rich paste. The resulting miso is typically used in soups, sauces, and marinades, offering a deep, savory flavor. The process of making miso involves careful attention to temperature, humidity, and time, with different types of miso varying in flavor based on ingredients and the length of fermentation.
The aging process, as well as some alterations to recipe, have resulted in a line of six miso pastes from the American Miso Company: Traditional Red Miso, Country Barley Miso, Brown Rice Miso, Sweet White Miso, Mellow White Miso, and Chickpea Miso.
American Miso Company’s choice of location in Rutherford County has played a significant role in the company’s success. The rural setting offers essential environmental factors that directly contribute to the quality of miso. “The primary advantage is the clean air and naturally sourced well water provided by the rural setting,” said Smith. The area’s four distinct seasons further aid in fermentation, ensuring optimal conditions for crafting the perfect miso. The region also provides a talented workforce that’s crucial to the artisanal process of making miso.
“In the mountains of WNC, we have a hardworking and dedicated workforce capable of handling the rigorous demands of traditional miso making,” Smith said. “Our operations would not be possible without these individuals.” The area’s lower cost of living also allows the company to pay its employees a living wage while maintaining financial sustainability in its labor-intensive production process.
Maintaining Tradition While Meeting Demand
As consumer interest in organic and traditional foods grows, so has the demand for American Miso’s handcrafted products. “With so much processed food on the market, consumers are more and more seeking out higher quality food,” said Smith. “Miso paste has garnered more attention recently from chefs for its versatility as an ingredient to impart a savory umami flavor.”
To meet the rising demand, American Miso has doubled its production in recent years. Robust sales through retail and bulk markets have driven this growth, and Smith credits the versatility of miso as a key factor in its increased popularity. “Food manufacturers and everyday consumers have started to recognize miso as a powerful flavor enhancer, distinct from other ingredients,” he said. This increased demand has prompted the company to expand, but Smith remains committed to balancing growth with the artisanal methods that define Miso Master’s exceptional quality.
Challenges and Competition
Smith said that miso makers often face a dilemma: “Miso producers tend to either take shortcuts in production to expedite and maximize yield, or they remain small to keep a strict adherence to tradition.” American Miso Company has found a middle ground, adhering to traditional methods while exploring ways to incorporate machinery without compromising quality. Maintaining this balance is crucial as the company scales its operations to meet the growing demand for high-quality miso.
The company’s traditional practices—such as hand-turning rice, fermenting in cypress vats, and manually adjusting temperatures and humidity—ensure the miso remains true to its roots. Smith is adamant about preserving the authentic process, which he learned from the company’s previous miso master Joe Kato. “Joe made me promise to him not to change the base miso-making process, to keep it traditional and not lend to commercialized stuff or just making the entire thing automated,” Smith said.
The Future of Miso in WNC
Looking ahead, American Miso Company remains dedicated to its cultural mission while embracing the benefits of modern business practices. The company’s location in Western North Carolina is not just a matter of geography—it is integral to the company’s identity. The area provides the perfect environment for cultivating miso while maintaining the atmosphere that has made American Miso a local staple. “Relocating would disrupt the family-like atmosphere among employees, some of whom have worked here for over 20 years,” Smith said. “There has never been any discussion about moving away from WNC.”